Michele's Simply Sweet

I've never heard of using Marshmallow fluff as an ingredient in meringue, but now I am intrigued. I will try this soon!

Mastering meringue: Tips on reaching new heights

March 28, 2012|By Lisa Futterman, Special to Tribune Newspapers

Egg whites are the workhorse of the kitchen, providing the strength to bind ingredients, the power to puff souffles and the delicacy to act as the wings of an angel food cake.

Egg whites have lots of protein and no fat, and when whipped can hold air to make the fluffy peaks we love on top of citrus tarts and meringue pies.

Meringue, by definition, contains sugar, which actually helps stabilize the pouf, and makes it brown better when hit with high heat. So why does such a simple combination of egg whites and sugar strike fear in the hearts of so many brave cooks?

Perhaps not enough of us have been baking with our grandmothers lately. Grandmothers intuitively know facts like "room temperature egg whites whip more easily" — their grandmothers taught them. I clearly remember learning the definition of the word "gradually" as I added sugar to a cake batter under my grandmother's watchful eye.

The science behind egg white whippery is less important to the home cook than the following truths:

Older egg whites whip better and achieve more volume. If you find yourself with a carton of about-to-expire eggs, make meringue.

Egg whites will simply not whip in the presence of fat. Egg yolks contain all the fat in the egg, so if you drop a little bit of yolk into your whites, carefully remove it by scooping with a bit of shell, or you will have to start over. Always whip with a clean whisk and bowl.

Heat, sugar and acid will stabilize the foam. Cream of tartar is an acid, which is why we see this puzzling ingredient listed in so many dessert recipes. In a pinch, a squeeze of lemon juice or a dash of white vinegar added while whisking will stiffen things up, but cream of tartar works best. Some recipes call for the whites to be warmed slightly over a hot water bath before or during whisking. Stir constantly and be careful not to allow the whites to cook. At the very least, like grandma says, allow the whites to come to room temperature before whipping.

Add sugar gradually. The protein in the egg whites blocks the sugar from dissolving easily, but if you add just a tablespoon at a time while whipping, it will work itself in without deflating the meringue. Get the foam started before adding any sugar — the whites should already look very bubbly and translucent before introducing sugar to the mix.

Don't worry about over-beating. The good news is that once the sugar is added the meringue can be whipped almost indefinitely. (Recipes with little or no sugar are at risk for over-whipping.)

Prevent deflation by baking meringue immediately. The longer it sits the more it will sink, so get it in the oven as soon as you can.

The accompanying recipe shows off meringue at its best. Go forth without fear and conquer the quest for luscious meringue. Your grandmother will be very proud.

Pineapple pie with marshmallow meringue

Prep: 20 minutes
Cook: 4-5 minutes
Chill: 3-4 hours
Servings: 8

Note: We can teach you all the tricks to making a perfect meringue topping that won't weep or deflate. But sometimes it pays to cheat and start with a jar of marshmallow cream from the supermarket.

Filling:
1 1/2 cups sugar
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cups unsweetened pineapple juice
3/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 egg yolks (save whites for topping)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup boiling water
1 prepared graham cracker crust (9 inch)

Topping:
3 egg whites
1 jar (7 ounces) marshmallow cream

1. In a medium heavy saucepan off the heat, whisk together sugar, cornstarch and salt; add pineapple and lemon juices. Combine thoroughly. Place on medium heat, stirring gently but constantly, until mixture comes to a simmer. Add yolks, butter and boiling water; heat, stirring, until thickened and bubbling. Immediately pour into crust; cover with plastic wrap touching the surface. Allow to cool.

2. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Whip egg whites in a large grease-free bowl with an electric mixer until white and foamy. Add marshmallow cream; whip until very fluffy. Spread or pipe onto cooled pie, making sure to touch the edges of the crust with the topping and to leave swirls and peaks for a pretty texture.

3. Bake until well browned on top, 5 minutes. Allow to cool; before serving, chill, at least 2 hours.

Nutrition information:
Per serving: 472 calories, 12 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 86 mg cholesterol, 89 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 289 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.

Pavlova

Prep: 30 minutes
Cook: 55-60 minutes
Servings: 8

Note: Perhaps the ultimate expression of meringue, the Australian dessert Pavlova is the perfect celebration of spring. It also provides a delicious opportunity to practice your egg white whipping. Incidentally, this recipe makes a perfect flour-free dessert for your Passover seder (but be sure to use kosher for Passover vanilla).